Intra-Coastal Waterway

I am now officially cruising southbound on the Atlantic Intra Coastal Waterway.

The IntraCoastal Waterway is an inland waterway that actually runs from Boston southbound through Florida all the way to the Gulf of Mexico and ends in Brownsville, Texas.

I am cruising the portion of the waterway more commonly known as the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway - or the AICW.  This route begins in Norfolk, Virginia, and ends in Key West, Florida.  The origin of the canal stems from the desire to provide a coastal shipping route that avoids some of the treacherous offshore passages such as the route off shore around Cape Hatteras.  You may recall an early post on my blog where I referred to that stretch of offshore waters as the Graveyard of the Atlantic.  Anyway, the ICW is an inland route that offers much more protection and shelter for boaters as they travel north or south along the coast.  Parts of the ICW are natural bodies of protected waters including bays and rivers such as the Chesapeake Bay, Delaware Bay, Albemarle Sound, Florida Bay, etc.  But other parts of the waterway are man-made canals and locks.  The ICW was completed in phases which began in the late 1800's, but was fully completed in the mid 1930's.  Today the waterway is maintained by the US Army Corps of Engineers.   They are supposed to ensure safe passage of vessels up to at least 6 feet of water depth.   But in many local areas, inadequate funding means the waterway is not dredged as often as it should be and shoaling occurs which can make for some hazardous navigation.  There has also been significant impact on the navigability of the waterway in some areas due to the recent hurricanes that passed through the mid-atlantic region.

One of the resources provided to cruisers is pictorial survey data that shows 'good water' and the shallows too.  Here's a sample of a survey of a particularly tricky spot.  Green and Blue - good... Red zones - I am aground!!!

The Atlantic ICW is marked with mile markers and I entered at mile 0 on the Elizabeth River near Norfolk, VA.  I immediately had to pass through a lock (like a water elevator) where the boat was raised up about 5 feet, then through a bridge in to the Dismal Swamp Canal.

Here's a picture of the locks

and the bridge

As I transit the ICW there are 144 bridges that will span the waterway.  Many will provide enough clearance for my mast height (45 feet) but many others will need to open for me to pass safely.

Here's a picture of the beautiful view of my transit through the Dismal Swamp.  It was anything but dismal...

This part of the waterway is so narrow and shallow that I could not let go of the wheel for a second or I risk running aground.  I had to avoid logs in the water and tree branches overhead.  But the scenery was gorgeous.  I stopped along the way for a picnic lunch on shore...

Then I moored the boat overnight at the Dismal Swamp State Park -   where I awoke the next morning with frost on the boat...

As I continued south I passed through Virginia and then in to North Carolina.

Here's an example of the posted mile markers along the way...

As I cruised along I stopped in several different small towns along the way.  I have met many nice and interesting people - from fellow cruisers to local townspeople.  My timing is such that I am cruising on the later side of the cruising season.  Many days I do not see any other cruisers - or one or two others at most.  Many marinas and anchorages that I come to are quiet and peaceful - as this is considered the off-season.

I did have a unique experience the other day.  There are many cruisers who cruise with pet dogs or cats.  But this guy is cruising with his pet pig...!

I have been looking forward to my next rendezvous with Janet and she was to meet me along the way.  She flew in to Norfolk and I left the boat and picked her up and she has joined me for a week of ICW cruising.  Janet has officially declared herself as 'rugged' since this part of the cruise requires bundling up for day sailing and chilly night-time sleeping.  Those of us who know her best - know she is anything but rugged.  But I'm glad she's aboard with me.

With Janet aboard and the daily hi and low temperatures continuing to fall we decided to kick it in gear and make some time.  Janet came aboard when I was moored on the north end of the Alligator River.  We left there and cruised a long day to the beautiful and quaint little town of Belhaven, NC.  Belhaven stakes the claim that is the 'birthplace' of the ICW since it was there that the final link in the connection of the man-made portions of the waterway enabled inland transit along the entire east coast.  Prior to that final link, boats could only do portions of the waterway without having to go off-shore for certain legs of the journey coastwise.  While in Belhaven we stumbled on the local Tuesday night Blue-Grass Jam.  There were about 25 or so local folks enjoying the blue-grass music jam of about 8 guys with guitars and banjos.  Everyone got to sing along.

After Belhaven we stopped at a first-class resort marina near Oriental, NC.  We saw an awesome moon-rise over the River Dunes Marina near Oriental, NC

Next day we moved on to Beaufort, NC which was a great town along the way - it also happened to be Thanksgiving Day.  We were delightfully surprised to learn of their annual tradition where the locals provide a full pot-luck Thanksgiving Dinner complete with all the trimmings and welcome the transient cruisers with open arms. 

We enjoyed a great Thanksgiving Dinner and met lots of nice people both cruisers and locals.

After Beaufort we passed through Morehead City then on to the small town of Swansboro, NC.  There we just happened to be at a dock right next to where Santa came ashore for their annual Christmas Boat Parade and Tree Lighting ceremony.

Here's Santa making landfall...

And Rudolf is glad he's arrived!!!

The boat parade was a highlight of our visit in Swansboro... with about 15 or so boats lit up in full holiday gala...

I write the blog today from a Hampton Inn in Swansboro.  Swansboro was hit hard by the recent hurricanes.  Many marinas in this area are closed.  They got 'silted in' from the storms meaning there's not enough water for boats to approach the docks without running aground.  We were fortunate to find a dock with deep water -  but most of the marinas in the area do not have running water still - meaning no bathrooms and/or showers.  Also it is raining hard today.  Rugged Janet and I agreed to stay in a hotel that has heat, toilets, and showers....

Janet leaves in the morning and I will continue the journey south.  Swansboro is at mile marker 229 on the ICW...  My ultimate destination back at Crandon Park Marina in Key Biscayne, FL is mile marker 1,050.  So I've got a ways to go with lots of fun and adventures still to come.